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Posted by in seed saving Tags: , , , , , , , on Sep 15, 2019

Poppies are really cool plants that a lotof people say they have trouble getting to grow in their garden and here is how I've beensuccessful with poppies.

I plant the seed in mid to late August of theperennial poppy.

I simply tossed it on the ground.

I don't cover it, I just toss it on the ground, press it in and water it.

The plants will begincoming up in the fall and don't worry about winter killing them too muchbecause come spring your plants will grow you will have beautiful poppiesjust like this and do allow your established poppies to go to seed anddrop the seed on their own.

Source: Youtube

welcome to organic garden today i`m going to show how to decorate money plant take a pot take a strong wire to tie it as a round now tie the wire as a circle and now keep the wire in the pot put some stones and it want to be weight put some soil garden soil60% compost10% sand20% cocopeat10% take a well grown money plant and plant it now round the money plant on the wire spray water thanks for watching.

Source: Youtube

Posted by in seed saving Tags: , , , , , , , , on Sep 15, 2019

Hi I'm Tricia an organic gardener I groworganically for a healthy and safe food supply, for a clean and sustainable environment, for an enjoyable and rewardingexperience.

If you've gardened long enough you know there's aquandary of how to keep track of all your garden seeds.

When it comes to organizing my seed Idivide it into three groups based on planting time.

This is my six to eight weeks box.

Inside this box I have seeds like tomatoes and peppers that needs to be started indoor in trays about six to eight weeks before the last frost.

I also have seeds that can be direct seeded in theground six to eight weeks before the last frost, like peas.

In my three to four week box I have plants like cucumber and other cucurbits that can be started inside in trays three to four weeks before the last frost.

As well as a little section for seeds that can be started directlyin the ground three to four weeks before the lastfrost.

This is my direct seed after frost box, this backs contains vegetables such ascorn, beans and okra.

For seeds that you are going to use this season or that you are going to use within the next year you can just store them in a cool dark spot.

The seeds that I'll be using over the next few years can be storedin a moisture proof box like this.

If you seed packs have torn apart or if your saving your own seeds store them in these little tins.

If you have some silica gel packs from abox of shoes you can drop those in the box just tofurther reduce the humidity.

Seeds stored longer than a year shouldhave a moisture content of less than a 8 percent.

Seeds will reach a moisture equilibrium withtheir environment.

A good rule of thumb for getting anappropriate moisture content is to make sure that the sum of the temperaturein Fahrenheit and the relative humidity does not exceed one hundred.

The whole box can go in therefrigerator where there's a temperature below forty and a relative humidity ofless than sixty.

Different plant varieties keep longer than others, for example onions will keep only about a year butcucumbers will keep to about five years.

Seed packs will have a packed for dateprinted on them so you know what year to count the longevity from.

If you are planting seeds that are a little bit old plant more than you normally would, because germination rates may go downjust a little bit.

An easy way to keep track of what seeds you have, their longevity and the last date you planted is byusing a spreadsheet.

This way you don't end up buying seeds youalready have or not replacing seed that is old you can download this spreadsheet fromgroworganic.

Com which will auto fill the longevity ofthe vegetable seed and the planting time.

There's a wealth of information aboutseeds in our seed catalog as well as many planting tips in our calendar.

So organize your seed cupboard and groworganic for life!.

Source: Youtube

Grow more bountiful veggies with Miracle-Gro Garden Soil for Vegetables & Herbs.

This soil is enriched with Moisture Control technology to help protect against over and under-watering.

It's specially designed for in-ground use and feeds plants for up to 3 months.

To start, apply a 3 inch layer of garden soil over the area to be planted and mix it into the top 6 to 8 inches of native soil.

Then add your plants or seeds.

Be sure to check the plant tag or seed packet for spacing recommendations.

After planting, water your vegetables and herbs thoroughly.

And for even greater results, start a feeding routine thirty days after planting.

Grow a bigger, more bountiful harvest with Miracle-Gro Garden Soil for Vegetables & Herbs.

Source: Youtube

welcome to organic garden today i`m going to show how to make basket garden first we need to have basket i`m using palmyra basket here this basket there are many holes ,so place a piece of sack inside the basket and then potting soil garden soil+cocopeat +sand add the plants in the soil spray water do not pour much water pour water once every two days keep this in the shaded and sunny windows place my other project thanks for watching.

Source: Youtube

[Music] In times gone by, saving seed was the main way growersobtained plants for the next season – keeping what they needed for thefollowing year, and swapping the rest.

These days, seed is cheaply and widely availablefrom many suppliers, but there are still good reasons to saveyour own.

It's the best way to perpetuate rare heritage or heirloom varieties which havebeen passed down through generations.

Preserving the seed ensures they are there for the future, and helps maintain genetic diversity.

Varieties can subtly evolve over time to become better suited to your unique local growing conditions.

It's natural selection in action, andwhile you may not have unique strain after 1 or 2 years, locally saved seed can over a few decadesbecoming a unique variety.

It can be very rewarding to learn howto successfully grow plants through to maturity, harvest and store the seed, and then useit to grow them again in subsequent years.

Finally, saving seed can save you money.

Many crops produce lots of viable seed which just takes your time to collect, clean, dry and store.

Some vegetables produce seeds more easilythan others and are more likely to produce goodyields.

Plants which are easy to collect seed from include beans, peas, tomatoes, peppers and chilies.

Seeds from biennial crops that take 2 seasons to produce seeds, such as carrots, onions or beetroot, are harder to save because you need tokeep the plants in optimum condition for 2 years.

However, leaving some in the ground toflower the following year can be a successful early source of pollen forbeneficial insects as well as helping you to save seed.

Other plants, such as squash and melons, readily pollinate with other types grown in the area and won't always produce reliable saved seed unless you take measures to prevent insect pollination, and pollinate by hand, so most homegardeners don't bother saving these seeds.

It's also not worth saving seeds fromplants which are grown from F1 hybrid seeds.

F1 hybrid varieties are commerciallyproduced seeds that combine certain traits of 2 parent plants,such as resistance to disease, pests or bolting, or a tendency to produce heavy yields.

For example, carrot 'Resistafly' andmany common sweet corn varieties are F1 hybrids.

Some saved seed from F1 varieties will beinfertile, and some will produce different traitsfrom the original parents that are less favorable to the ones which you originallybought.

Check the seed packet for an F1 mark ifyou're unsure.

For many plants, the seed is ready forcollection when a few start to drop into the soil – nature's way of indicating that the seedis mature.

For other plants you may need to experiment to find the best time, for example with fruiting plants, thecorrect time to collect seed from their fruits may be a little later than the timethey're ready to eat.

Remember to only save seed from the most vigorous plants with the best fruit and avoid using seed from weak or unusuallooking plants – in this way, you'll be naturally selectingthe traits you wish to encourage in your crops.

You might sacrifice a little from yourharvest but you'll gain in interest throughout the fall and winter in seeingflowers and seed pods develop From the healthiest plants, collect a fewripe fruits, free of cracks or bug holes which can serve as entry points fordisease and microorganisms.

Wash the fruits well, then slice outthe middle portions from each one which is where the biggest, fattest seeds are found.

Put the middle portions into a jar and add some water to cover.

Put on the lid and store in a warm placefor 2-3 days – a windowsill in a sunny position will do – giving it to shake a few times a day to loosen the mixture.

This will cause the gelatinous sacaround the tomato seed to break down through a fermentation process.

The sac part contains chemicals whichprevent germination.

Pour the liquid through a kitchen sieveand rinse with cold water.

The fleshy part of the tomato, includingthe sac, should come away from the seed, leaving you with seeds in the sieve.

Repeat this a few times if necessary.

Dry the seeds by putting them on a finemesh, or something like a paper plate.

if you put them onto paper towels theytend to stick quite firmly, so it's best to create ready-madeplanting discs, which can be sown direct into pots next year.

Cut circles of paper towel and place a couple of seeds per disc to use when you're planting them out.

After a week in a dry place, the seeds should be dry enough to store.

Put them in an envelope and be sure tolabel them with the date and variety.

The tomato method also works well forother seeds extracted from fruits.

For other seeds, using coarse sieves can helpseparate the seed from the surrounding plant material.

Whatever method you use, it's importantthat all seeds are dried out thoroughly before storage and then kept in airtight containers whichare mice and pest-proof, in a cool dark place.

Prepared correctly from good healthyplants, your seeds should remain viable easily into the next growing season, andin some cases for several years.

Once you've kept the seeds you need, why not offer surplus at a local seed swap event or to friends and family.

With any luck you'll be rewarded withequally cared-for seeds which will grow into great plants – starting the whole process again.


Source: Youtube

I live in South Carolina.

South Carolina too much clay in ground.

Ground no good and too hard.

If you put compost you'll be.

your vegetable production will grow excellent and you'll have your home natural production and no chemical, because it's much better.

Show right now how we'll be to make this compost.

Where pickup? How easy.

Right now go next step.

First step we're doing this looking right here fireplace.

We have wood.

You see like this wood.



Now finished.

Big wood take out.

Small wood we have ashes pretty good.

Put together and after fire any place where you go.

If you go in park or you go in.

if you looking some ashes, you have always basket or something, and bag, and small shovel, and pick up, and put inside basket, and bring for your home.

Ashes very good mineral.

Mineral production right here.

I show for you where we put these ashes on my property and show how process go step by step.


Some people doing a road right here and pushes top ground right here, and mix together.

You see this is wood.

wood and rotten wood stay inside.

You see like this.

Rotten wood and inside w e have a lot of compost.

Wild compost.

Very good.

Very good.

Wild compost very good and leaves, and pine leaves, and everything mixed and on top ground.

This wild compost, study for me my dad.

I lived in Russia.

He studied how pickup very natural wild compost.

We go to forest, move out these leaves always and pick up wild compost.

Wild compost have much better, no chemical.

No chemical.

This chemical kill natural benefits for people and better if you put for your ground, for vegetables.

you'll be healthy always.

Too many people right now no healthy, because have problem.

Too much chemical food, because too much chemical in soil and ground.

Use farmer, everybody and say "natural food.

" It's not natural food.

If you want healthy food and natural wild compost, homemade, you must come on to forest, your property, or forest government, or any place where you are allowed to pick up this natural compost.

Come on show for you more.

Right here I'm pickup this area, compost for my property.

You see I am take out top layer and bottom is mixed.

Rotten wood.

everything together.

Rotten wood.

It's very good and rotten leaves and pine leaves.

Everything small ground.

You see like this.

It's much.

if you have a little bit sand, its much better, sand too.

Doing ground very perfect and if you're looking like this area, something pushing together wood, it's much better area.

It's a lot better.

You must pickup everything for your ground.

You must have inside car special basket, small shovel or something, and plastic bag where you can put something inside and if you're looking much better compost, you must take, pick up this compost and put inside bag.

How much do you need or put inside basket.

This is will be natural.

I'm pickup right here and go more another place where I have too much.

Too many.

A lot.

A lot compost we show next area where I'm pick up too much more.

This compost we can pickup every area where we have permission.

If Some people say "Okay come on my forest" and give for you permission, we can pick up this compost.

It's much better.

Too many people have forests or big farm, nobody work inside forest.

You come on inside.

Between trees we have leaves inside like this.

You must move outside little bit more.

Everything moving.

Under trees you'll have always, inside compost.

Not too much.

Not a lot, only top layer, right here this area, you see, always good.

This probably like this area.

You can doing like this clean up and out You see, it will be easy, very good.

Around trees we can pick up like this and put inside basket.

Very, very good compost and go for your property.

This is very soft.

Very nice.

Sometimes rotten wood, it's okay, because a little bit more time it'll be this is very good and put inside car, and I put right here my shovel.

Put inside car and go for next area.

What we doing next area.

Right here we have compost ready.

Right here my home.

Right here ready compost, very good.

We bring more.

You see like this clay, very hard to grow plants, because this clay no good, and if you bring compost and mix this, everything.

My wife mixes like this.

Put right here.

Very easy grow every plant.

Every tree same idea.

You must put inside roots, inside hole, between roots, this compost.

Trees will very excellent grow.

Go next step.

Wild ground, you're doing like this.

Pickup shovel and doing upside down.

Doing right here, It's your ground.

After finish right here, your backyard, you'll finish, cut everything, grass out.

After finish right here, What we doing? Put on top these ashes.

I just put on top, top layer.

After doing, pickup ashes and put on top right here.

Put on top ashes.

After finish ashes, then lay down and put more compost.

Put on top.

Again, separate everything and after finish everything, everything mix together.

Ashes and compost mix together.

We have very excellent ground, for every plant.

Grow fast and better and easy for roots, for every plant.

Roots have air.

Roots easy grow.

Water easy go inside ground.

See like this, very good, too much benefits.

After finish, you ready, go to flea market to buy new plant.

What kind plant do you want? Flower? Cucumber? Dill? Tomato? Everything, what do you want? Eggplant.

You'll be have natural pr oduction your backyard.

You see like this ground, (rain drops) nobody put right here nothing.

We last year to buy this property, bought this property and put trees and put small backyard.

What to do first? First shovel, doing natural.

This regular ground.

We doing shovel, mix everything first.

Second step, we bring right here, put some ashes.

You see ashes? Right here, probably like this, put ashes right here and Separate for everything where you want put plant.

What do you want? After this, we bring.

next step, We bring right here compost.

I show for you where we pickup compost.

It's natural compost.

Put on top.

On top put compost.

It's natural.

It's not ready ground.

After finish this, we come out right here, pickup shovel and mix everything.

You see like.

what kind ground stay right here.

See like this, mix.





What do you want put for this ground? Looks like black, you can put this ground every plant.

Tomato, we put last year.

Tomato grow perfect.

Cucumber grow perfect, dill, parsley, everything grow excellent.

This is ready ground.

This is right now February, we have ready ground for new plant.

If you put right here new plant, we'll have natural vegetables, everything natural, not chemical, because everything we pick up from forest.

From forest it's natural compost.

Try doing this right here.

If you have flower garden.

come here.

Now raining.

I show for you.

this is raining.

See right here.

February start grow flower right here and right here.

My wife not finished right here, we only start this property.

We bring compost right here.

My wife put right here ready ground.

Inside compost.

Before we have clay right here.

This needs mixing.

Will grow every flower.

Perfect grow.

If you want natural, no chemical property, if you have.

Whats better for you? Long life and healthy, no go to doctor, you doing yourself.

You doing for health, for you.

Work your backyard, you healthy because, fresh air, you work forest, pickup compost, moving, you have interests for life.

You have good idea and your life will be long time no died early.

Good luck.

If you have questions, please put questions, will be answered every time.

If you want look more video, more we'll be continuing video for this interest, for Compost, for backyard (gardening).

Thank you very much.

Like and Subscribe.

Thank you very much.

Source: Youtube

Alright! This is John Kohler with growingyourgreens.


Today we have another exciting episode for you, and I’m coming at you from my backyard garden.

And my back yard garden is lush and beautiful here in the winter, growingall my amazing leafy greens.

Over on this side, I don’t know if you guys could see,we got tatsoi, we got different collard greens and kale and cauliflower over there.

Overhere we have a nice bed of spinach, behind me here we have arugula, behind me there wehave bok choy, and behind me there we have collard greens and cabbage and brussel sprouts.

All kinds of cool stuff growing on.

Now as much as I plant new crops, one of thethings I like to do besides harvest my crops to eat, is I love to harvest and save my seeds.

And I get questions all the time, ‘John, how do I save seeds?’ And saving seeds peopleis not rocket science.

It’s really easy.

Just let nature do all the work.

And that’swhat I do.

So seed saving is really good for lazy gardeners because half the time if you’rea lazy gardener, like I can be sometimes, because it’s all about priorities in thegarden, you know, your plants are just going to grow and grow until they’re going toreach the end of their life cycle.

And then they will produce seeds automatically.

Youdon’t have to tell them, plant you need to make some seeds for me.

They’re justgoing to do it.

If I get in bed with a girl, my girlfriend, I don’t do, we’re goingto make some babies, you know what I’m saying.

And I don’t need to be told what to do,right.

And that’s how plants are.

So you guys just need to like let the plants go throughtheir motions and have their fun in life.

And then collect and save their seeds.

So in this episode, what I thought I’d sowith you guys here in the winter, because after the summer season, you know, thingsgenerally go for the season on annual crops.

They basically go through their baby stage,you know, like we have baby spinach, it grows up into a bigger spinach.

Then as it getslarger, it actually goes into it’s reproductive stages and makes the flower.

Like if you eatbroccoli, the broccoli flower is what we eat.

But then actually if you let that broccoliflower grow up and get bigger, it actually turns into the little individual flowers,which then get pollinated, which then turns into the seeds.

And actually that’s whatmy tatsoi over here, some of my plants are actually doing early, so I’ve been eatinga lot of that stuff lately.

And they’re going to be making some seeds for me.

ButI thought I’d share with you guys like 10 different seeds and how easy it is to sharewithout any kind of rocket science, without any kind of mumbo jumbo.

And seed saving ispretty easy.

And all these situations, it’s pretty much just being a lazy gardener, likeI am.

Well, not naturally, but I’m just so busy so that I can’t do everything inmy garden, you know.

I try and do as much as I can.

But anyways.

So let’s get into the fundamentals of seedsaving, right.

So here we go in my little containers here.

And my containers are thesepots, I basically planted the dandelion greens.

So instead of planting dandelion greens ina raised bed, I don’t want to waste the space, these guys grow really well in a smallcontained space but also they provide me dandelions to eat year round.

Dandelions are an amazingfood.

And I want to encourage you guys to grow them as a food.

These ones came in wildand they just started growing themselves and I just would pluck them up and put them inmy pots.

And even if they come up from my raised beds these days, I pluck them and thenput then in pots and repopulate the pots so I could have year round dandelions.

Becausethey are so good for your liver.

The whole plant is edible, the leaves, the roots, thestems, the stalks, the flowers, it’s all amazing.

And you guys could go out to natureand harvest your own dandelion seeds.

How it happens is actually basically is thatit makes these, the flowers here, and when these flowers open up, you guys could seeat the bottom or the base, now this is not a ready flower so I’m harvesting this abit early, but these guys open up and they make the little things that you’ll wantto blow.

And at the bottom of these things, you blow, if you look carefully, now theseare not fully developed, you know, on they attach to these little blower puffy things.

They’re not blowing right now.

But these are the little seeds.

So if you just go outto any dandelions, you could just collect the flower when it’s fully open, not closedlike this because these are a little bit immature, Collect the seeds and take them and put themin your garden, take them in a pot to grow them yourself, you know.

I believe wild, cultivatedwild foods are the best foods.

So what does that mean? You want to harvest foods fromthe wild that have just been growing wild and then cultivate them under optimal conditionswith the best soil practices.

So good compost, rock dust, you know, worm castings and highlynutritious soil.

And then you’re going to have the best of both worlds.

The best ofwild genetics and the best of high nutrient dense foods.

And so yeah that’s how youwould collect your dandelion seeds.

Let’s go ahead and move on to 9 other cropsthat are now waiting for me in my garden for their seeds to be collected.

So in this next raised bed, actually it’sone of the beds that I haven’t really replanted yet for the new winter season.

It’s stillkind of has the summer stuff, which includes lots of different herbs, hot and spicy oregano,parsley along the bottoms, some roo 5:03, some tree collards, some celery, some swisschard.

But it has a few things that haven’t cleaned up yet and collected the seeds for.

So I thought I’d share with you guys collecting seeds on these 3 crops here, mostly herbsactually.

So right here what we have left is we have left of what’s left of my basilplants.

And the basils, you know, will grow the leaves that we eat.

But people don’tknow you could also eat the basil flowers, which are actually quite good and delicious.

But then once it goes to flower, it creates seeds.

So the seeds, if we take a look, we’llgo ahead and snip this guy off, are basically right here.

You could see this is like thestem and then it makes the flowers and these seeds are contained inside these little sacs.

It’s like a nut sac.

But basically we pull off one of these sacs, and then carefullywe could open this sac up and squeeze them.

And I don’t know if you guys could see thatin my hand there, but now we have these little tiny black seeds.

And it’s these seeds arethe basil seeds that now you could grow out for next season.

So we got a bunch of these.

So yeah I’m just going to spread it in my garden and let them grow next year if theydecide to come up or not.

You know, a lot of times I may collect the seeds, share themwith others, plant them in specific places, plant them out, you know, in my green housesbefore the season starts, get them going strong and then transplant them out.

But many timesif I don’t really feel like collecting the seeds or in this case I don’t have too manyleft, I’ll just basically spread them out, tear open the plants in their place and spreadthe seeds so I’m helping the plant out spreading seeds.

And let me tell you, one of the thingsI like to do is spread my seeds.


So also in this bed we got a couple more things.

So let me go ahead and reposition the camera and show you guys some seeds that I actuallywill be saving this year.

So the next seeds I’ll be sharing with youguys on how to save is onion seeds.

Like seed saving is super easy.

You just have to openyour eyes and look for little seeds or black things or whatever color they come in or anyshape, and collect them.

So what we’re looking at here is my onion plant.

They send up thesenice beautiful flowers.

They make those small little bouquets of flowers.

And those flowersare edible.

I love them, whether they are, you know, from garlic or onions, they’reall amazing.

And in this bouquet of flowers here, I don’t know if you guys could seehere, let’s see a lot of these seeds have actually dropped out, I think this one’spretty good.

I’m going to go ahead and pluck this stem off.

And this is a little bouquetof flowers.

And each one of the flowers, I don’t know if you guys could see that, butthey open up and they create little black specks or little black seeds inside each flower.

So it’s our job to come in afterwards, and you could blow them out and sift them in yourgarden so you have onions coming up wild.

And, you know, one of my goals as a gardenerand as a, I’m trying to do hands off gardening, which I’m not quite fully there yet, isto have systems in place where the plants will go to seed, they’ll drop seed, andthey’ll just continue to grow on their own without me having to do any intervention.

So I have a few raised beds that actually that does occur where the plants just keepcoming up on their own.

I don’t have to keep, you know, re-planting them.

But mostof my beds actually I re-plant year after year.

So we’re going to go ahead and savethese seeds.

So I just have a little plastic container here that I’m re-using.

And we’rejust going to go ahead and take these and just rub it out, and shake them and just witha little bit of force and cajoling, come out of there seeds.

All the seeds, you know, comeout of here.

And now I have some seeds in my container here.

So we’re just going togo ahead and do that to the rest of these plants and these dried up flowers to get allthe seeds.

Alright, so looks like we got a bunch of the seeds collected.

And, you know,I have used things like a kitchen of, you know, sieves and what not to strain out myseeds and what not.

And maybe in an upcoming episode I’ll show you the tools I use toactually strain out all the chaff, and, you know, sort out the seeds.

One of the thingsI like to do, because generally seeds are heavier than the chaff and all the plant partsis gently rotate this and blow.

And sometimes you’ll blow up a lot of the smaller stuff.

I do recommend, you know, when you guys aresaving your seeds, bagging them up, try not to save them with any kind of extra, you know,plant material, just seeds, because the plant material might be diseased or decayed andthere may be issues in this climate here because it’s so dry.

That’s not really an issuebut I just want to save the seeds without all the extra stuff in it.

Next in this bed, let’s go ahead and showyou guys how to save some parsley seed.

So now I’m going to share with you guys howto harvest the next seed that I’ll be harvesting today.

And it’s about actually a littlebit taller than I am, parsley.

Parsley, you may think of it like an herb that, you know,it goes on the side of your stake or something at the Stake house or something.

But to meit’s actually one of my vegetables.

I don’t even consider it an herb, because I just basicallycome out, cut a whole bunch of parsley, chop it up with some avocados, some sprouted buckwheatand some garlic that’s like crushed up.

And that’s a little salad to me.

I mean,around the world they make tabouli salads and stuff, which is based around parsley.

And I want to encourage you guys to eat copious amounts of parsley because it is such a nutritiousfood that unfortunately in America is often only seen as a garnish.

But to me it’s likethe main part of my salad many times.

And I really love the flavor of the parsley.


If you let your parsley grow, nolonger does it stay, you know, a foot tall or something, it grows 8 feet, no this isnot quite 8 feet, this is about 6 feet tall here.

And it’s gone to it’s flower stage.

So, you know, generally when plants go tothe flower stage on the greens, they send up a shoot that grows really tall.

Now whywould they do this? Have you ever thought about that? Well, I was thinking about thatthe other day.

I was like the reason why they send up their shoots very tall is so thatthey could get as high as they can so that they could look out amongst all the otherplants.

Well, no.

They want to get as tall as they can because they produce the seeds,and when the winds come, right, it will blow their seeds further than if they’re closerto the ground.

And this will, you know, basically provide them a better chance of survival andspreading their seeds.

And after all, that’s what every plant and every creature on earthwants to do.

It wants to reproduce.

So anyways, this thing is quite tall.

And now becauseit is so tall, I don’t have to crouch down, duck down, kneel down.

I could just standup and literally just have a little, once again another container, another bin, andjust go over the top and literally just squeeze the seeds right off.

And I’m going to collectsome seeds and I’m going to collect some plant matter.

But I mean, really it’s thiseasy.

Now here’s one of the caveats, I mean, in my climate here which is a nice arid, dryclimate, it’s amazing for collecting seeds, right.

Because we don’t get a lot of rainand i it does rain it dries out very fast.

In some climates like if you live in, in theNorth-East and what not and it snows and it rains and gets cold, you know, you bettercollect your seeds and stuff before it gets rained on and all this stuff because you couldhave your seeds go bad on you, which is not fun.

So in that case what you want to do isyou probably want to harvest, you know, I would just basically cut off pieces of theplants here, probably like this near the top with all the seed area, and just take likethese big bouquets inside kind of like this, and give them to your wife.

Here, honey, Igot you some flowers, I mean some seeds.

And you could take them inside when they’restill, you know, fully mature.

So you want to make sure there’s, they arebrowned out and there’s seeds on there.

You don’t want to harvest stuff too earlybecause if the seeds not fully mature, you know, they may not grow into plants, whichis the desired outcome.

I know when these guys are fully mature because they’re totallybrown and the seeds are just blowing off in the wind like they’re supposed to.

But nowI’m just going to go ahead and collect them.

But anyways, you’re going to want to cutthese off, bring them inside, you know, put them in a sunny greenhouse where the moisturecould evaporate off and then save your seeds when they are fully dry.

If you save yourseeds when they’re still wet, they could mould inside the bag.

It’s not fun and they’regoing to go bad.

So it’s not good.

You want them fully dry.

So you could also dehydrate,dry them in a dehydrator if they’re not fully dry.

But I like to let them dry in natureas they would naturally whenever possible.

So we’re just going to go ahead and getthe rest of these seeds by taking my hand and just putting this over the container.

And letting these go down and get caught in a container.

And of course, you know, if you’relazy like I am many times and you don’t even want to save your seeds but you do wantto save your seeds, right.

You don’t want to save your seeds in little bags, in envelopes.

The best way to save your seeds is just take it over the raised bed you want to have celerynext year, and go like this.

And then once I got the stalks, then this just goes in tothe compost.

Super simple, super easy, and next year I’m going to have a lot of parsleyin this bed and I’ll be looking forward to it.

So you guys just saw me harvest the matureparsley and now what I want to show you guys is actually lower on the plant.

It’s notfully done with this flowering cycle.

Depending on the plant, certain parts of the plant,the seeds may be ripe and ready to be harvested and other parts of the plant it may not beready.

So, you know, unlike conventional agriculture when they go in and just wipe out a wholefruit orchard and take down all the fruits, they’re not all ripe and perfect at theright time.

And that’s why I encourage you guys to selectively harvest your fruits attheir peak ripeness and also your vegetables at their peak ripeness.

But also your seeds.

So I wouldn’t just go through here and harvestand cut down the whole plant unless of course maybe a frost was impending and it was goingto get too cold and hurt this plant or something.

But here this thing will grow year round becausewe don’t get too cold.

But in any case, on this plant here, you know, there’s some,this is the same plant that I just harvested from at a lower point, you know.

There’sstill areas of the plant and, you know, this is an area where it’s actually still justabout going to flower if you guys could see that.

I don’t know if you guys could seethat.

But this is in the same family as the celery and carrots and what not.

And up over in this area, it looks like theyhave not only gone from the flower stage but now they’re forming their little seeds.

And we don’t want to harvest these immature seeds yet, you know, just much like, you know,a baby when a baby is being born.

It needs to be in the womb, you know, human baby, for9 months.

And sometimes they have to deliver the baby prematurely and a lot of times, youknow, the baby will alright if it’s a little bit premature.

But if it’s too much prematureit’s not going to make it.

Same things with the seeds.

If the seeds are harvested tooearly, they’re too premature and they will never turn in and be able to reproduce, youknow.

So we want to wait as long as we can and leave it on the plant to let it fullydevelop properly.

And like the question is, ‘John how do you know when a seed is fullydeveloped?’ Well the thing is if you take the plant and you could just blow it and yousee seeds dropping off, guess what? The plant is ready to give you it’s seeds and it’sready to share it’s seeds with you.

And you could help it in nature to spread itsseeds and do it a favor.

And we could all work in unity on this planet instead of fightingeach other, right.

So work in harmony with your plants, save your seeds and help themout by spreading their message.

So now I’m going to share with you guyshow to save a seed of an uncommon vegetable that you guys can easily grow and eat theroots.

And what this is called right here, I don’t know if you guys could see thiswhole patch here basically.

But it was so strong that it actually shoved out one ofmy raised bed blocks that was holding the raised bed.

So it actually, actually couldgrow out.

This is probably been one of the most productive easiest to take care of foodsources that I’m growing here in the desert.

This is known as Canna edulis or Achira.

Andthis grows like these leaves here, this one most of it was affected by the frost but theselow hanging ones that were protected by all the stems and stalks that didn’t make it.

Here’s another one, kind of frost damaged.

But they don’t like the cold weather butthey’ll, the roots stay alive during the winter due to the high sugar content.

Andthen they’re going to actually start to come back in the spring.

And they grow nicebanana like foliage or leaves.

The part that’s edible is down here.

It’s these like little,the root area.

And they’re basically a high source of starch.

So these starches, unlikemost starches that are roots, can be eaten either raw or cooked, and you know, I can’tsay I’ve eaten a lot of them, I maybe ate it once.

But I hope to have an episode soonwhere I actually cook these guys up because I have so many.

It’s been so prolific here.

I really grow this mostly for the decoration, because this does look like an ornamentalcrop.

So if you’re trying to like fit in ornamental but have edibles at the same time,this would be something probably you could easily grow in your front yard and it wouldjust look like a decorative plant.

But little does this city know that you’re growingfood.

So that’s why I like it.

Now saving the seeds, they grow up into thesenice long tall stalks.

Some of them were about 10 feet tall this year.

And at the top theymake these little flowers and then they make the little seeds.

So I don’t have any freshones to show you guys, but I have the dried ones here.

And this is kind of what they looklike at the top ones they are dried out.

So, you know, once again, you know when the seed’sready when it’s dried out.

And basically it makes these like, little like, I don’tknow if you guys know what a durian is, a durian fruit.

These are like little durianthings.

They got like these little spikes.

But they’re not really sharp.

Here’s onethat looks pretty good.

And then what happens is, inside these little pods or fruits, theymake a little seed.

So I don't know if you guys could see the little black seed in there.

But we’ll go ahead and pop that under my hand here.

Well there’s a few in there.

Oops, that one fell.

There’s one.

Oh, they keep falling out my hand.

Alright, there’sanother one.

I keep dropping them.

Alright, so let’s go ahead and pick these guys up.

So these are little seeds of the canna edulis.

I got 3 seeds there.

They look like little black BBs to me.

And one of the cool thingsI want to get like a little BB gun that will take these kind of BBs and go out into natureand just fire them out off into nature and I’ll be spreading seeds.

That would be reallycool.

I like these seeds a lot and then these will actually grow into the canna, which ismostly propagated.

And if you’re propagating and you guys actually buy the roots, actually,you know, buy root divisions and not necessarily seeds, but the seeds are something easy tosave and I really like them because they could probably be used for art work and all kindsof cool stuff.

I think they remind me of like little cannon balls or something.

Anyways,that’s how you save the canna edulis seeds.

Lets go ahead and move on to a couple morecrops in this bed that I haven’t yet prepared, you know, and transitioned over to my wintercrops yet.

Got two more seeds that I’ll show you guys how to save.

So now I’m going to go ahead and get intosharing some more seeds with you guys on crops that you may not know about.

And that in myopinion should be up and comers that you might want to grow in your garden and that shouldbe known about.

But these principles that I’m sharing with you guys, I mean, as youguys could see, like when I harvest seeds, they’re like always brown, they’re dryand they’re ready to fall off on their own.

I mean, seed saving, once again it’s notrocket science.

Don’t be scared of saving seeds.

The worst thing that’s going to happenif you save seeds that are immature, you save them and then you try to plant them out, theydon’t grow, you know, into plants for next year.

And that’s alright, you’ve learnedsomething.

Now also be aware that some plants you must call what do what’s called stratify.

So what that means is in nature, you know, plants go through cycles.

And the weathergoes trough cycles, it goes from hot to cold to hot again.

And the plants know when, youknow, the seeds know when it’s the temperature out there, you know.

They have built in thermometersand they know it it’s been cold or hot and what not.

And some seeds actually need tobe stratified.

And what that means is they need to go from the hot weather to the coldweather to like freezing weather and then back to the warm weather, and that’s whenthey know they should germinate and start growing.

So, you know, whether you want tobe lazy like I am and leave the seeds outside to stratify on their own outside.

Or whetheryou want to take the seeds, harvest them, and then, you know, for example put them inyour refrigerator to, you know, give them some cold weather to make them think it’scold and then grow those out.

You could also do that as well.

So the next seed I want to collect is actuallyright here.

I don’t know if you guys could see this plant behind me.

But this is knownas my Ashitaba plant.

And if you look on there closely like John those seeds aren’t readyto be harvested man, they’re still green.

So yes, you’re right, those seeds are greenand I’m not really going to harvest those guys.

But on this little section right herefor some reason some of the seeds are actually fallen off.

So what I do then is I just goahead and shake that plant lightly and see which ones fall off into my hands, and thenthose are the ripe ones ready to be harvested.

So these ones, they’re still fallen offbut they’re still green so they may or may not be fully mature.

So I do have anothervideo where actually I’ll post a link down below where I really harvest ripe and readyAstibaba seeds that are ready to be harvested because they are brown.

Also they should beof the proper size as well.

And Ashitaba is one of my favorite medicinal vegetables becauseit has so many healing properties and I believe every American should be growing and eatingsome of this on a regular basis for it’s rich, yellow chalcones, which have been shownto be anti-disease like anti-cancer and all this stuff.

Today well I’m just going to go ahead andspread these guys out since, you know, they’re not fully ready to be harvested.

And if Iget some coming up in this bed that would be great because this is my bed dedicatedto growing some Ashitaba.

Here in the desert it does fine.

This is growing in part shadeand they grow amazingly.

And the next plant I want to harvest the seedsfrom is right next door.

But I’m going to go ahead and move over to an area where Ihave a lot more of these seeds.

They’re actually known as the water pepper.

So the next plant I want to harvest seedsfrom is right here.

This is known as the water pepper.

And it’s called water pepper becauseI guess it likes to grow in moist areas and it tastes like hot pepper.

And it doesn’tmake any kind of fruits or anything like that.

But these leaves here, when they’re fresh,they’re no longer fresh they’re dried now naturally, they’re actually quite hotand spicy.

And it reminds you of eating hot peppers.

I don’t know I’ve never trieda dried leaf.

Let’s make sure there’s no bugs in this dried leaf.

Alright, it looksclean.

So this is a dry leaf left on the plant.

You know if I want to save it for harvesting,I would have harvested them when they are green and then dehydrated them.

Just eatingthe leaf like this, I do feel a hotness in my mouth.

So some of that hangs out in theplant.

It’s kind of cool.

My mouth is almost a little bit on fire right now.

But this isa really good way to, you know, get more, once again, those protective plant properties,the plant, you know, phytochemicals and phytonutrients in you.

Because who knows what that thingthat heats up my mouth, what that does inside you body, is it anti-cancer, is it anti-diabetes,is it anti-inflammatory, I don’t know.

And maybe one day there will be research on allthe different plants on what exactly they have been used for or what they can be usedfor.

But what I do know is that, you know, many cultures throughout history have usedmany plants for many different situations.

I haven’t actually looked up to see whatthis was used for traditionally because this is before we had drugs and medicine, they’dgo to a pharmacy to get, p-h-a-r-m-a-c-y, you’d go out to your farm, f-a-r-m-a-c-y,to harvest the plants.

So that’s what I want to encourage you guys to do.


Harvesting the seeds on these guysare really easy.

You know, I grew this, I grew one plant two years ago and it just,it went to seed and I didn’t really even see the seeds.

And then next year this wholebed was like overgrown with these guys and I’m like I’ll just let them grow.

Butif I let these seeds drop, and I’m sure plenty of them have dropped already, you know,next year this bed will probably just be entirely water pepper because it is, you know, it growslike a weed.

And those are the things that you want to grow, you know, not weed, youwant to grow plants that grow like weeds so you could harvest them and eat them and thenshare the seeds.

Specially plants that are kind of rare like this that you don’t seetoo often.

So, you know, once again, what I’m goingto do in this situation is just, is I’m going to go ahead and cut it off to demonstrate.

But I could just do with the plants sitting here.

We’d cut this guy off, and I don’tknow if you guys could see here on the ends, all these little things here, that’s theseeds.

So I just got a little bin here.

And I’m going to go over the bin and just takemy fingers and, you know, brush out the seeds.

And they’re just going to fall into my bin.

And now I could collect the seeds and save them.

Now all the rest of the plant partsget composted and I will be composting, these will turn into soil to feed these seeds.

Soyes, this is the water pepper.

Once again, really easy to save the seeds.

Just go hereand twist them all off.

And yeah, I see a bunch of the seeds in there.

Alright! Next let’s go to the last few crops.

And I’m going to share with you guys how to save the seeds.

The next one is actuallya fruit.

So the next kind of seed I want to show youguys how to save is super simple, super easy.

it’s pepper seeds.

So this bed was my summerpepper bed.

And I since actually cut it down, left all the roots of the plants in the ground.

I haven’t gotten yet to re-amend and then re-plant this for the winter time.

But youcould see here we just got some random peppers that have been on the ground outside dehydratingon the ground here.

And so that’s one of them right here.

So to save pepper seeds isreally easy.

You could even go to the grocery store and get full, fully developed ripe peppers.

And once again, we want to make sure they’re ripe peppers.

You can’t really save theseeds off green peppers because they’re not fully developed.

Green peppers are simplyred, orange or yellow peppers that are not fully ripe.

So I encourage you guys to eatripe peppers.

Anyways, here’s a little pepper that we got.

And we’re just going to goahead and tear this guy open.

And look at that, on the inside there’s all these seeds.

And it’s the fruit that protects the seeds, right.

And so we could just take these seedsout and we could just spread them out into the garden and have pepper plants next year.

You know, inside the pepper these seeds are a tad bit moist.

I might want to like justput them inside the greenhouse for a couple of days to dry out.

But these are ready tobe saved.

So like if I have damaged pepper seeds or damaged peppers that are not ableto be eaten by me, say there’s bug holes or they look kind of messed up, they’remouldy, I will use those to save those ones for seeds and save the good ones for me toeat.

Of course, you know, one of the things when you eat the peppers, you could also takeout the seeds to save them, you know.

So you could eat them and save the seeds.

A lot oftimes I like to just actually grind up the seeds and get the nutrition from the seedsinto me.

Plus they add a nice hot flavor to things like my, you know, pizzas and saucesthat I make.

So yeah, super simple, super easy to save seeds.

Open up the fruits, getthe seeds out, make sure they’re fully mature and then actually make sure they’re dryif you are going to be saving them.

So the next seeds I’m going to save arefrom another fruit that I grew in the summer, that has since gone the way of the west, it’sthese guys right here.

There’s a bunch of them right here.

I don’t know if you guyscould see that.

Here’s some more right here.

This is okra.

So I love okra, it’s one ofmy favorite summer vegetables.

It grows really well here in the hot desert climate, lovesthe temperatures, makes lots of pods.

I like to harvest the pods when they’re in theirbaby and young stage.

And that’s when I just eat them raw, you know, put them intosalads, add them to soups.

I’ve even pickled okra this past year.

Picked okra man, thebaby stuff, not when it’s too mature, it’s like so delicious, right.

And so what we’regoing to do is now we’re going to go ahead and save the seeds.

So we’re just goingto cut off one of these pods here.

And if you look, the okra actually will even startto split on you.

So if you guys could see that, like it’s starting to split, you couldsee all the seeds lined up in there.

It’s kind of like a little factory.

I mean thisis a seed pod, it’s a seed factory, it’s making seeds.

So what we’re going to goahead and do is we’re just going to go ahead and open this guy up very carefully over alittle bin.

And as you guys could see, all the seeds are dropping out.

And when we’redone with that, we’re left with the okra pod that now gets composted.

But before itgets composted, you could use this as special toys in the bedroom.

Alright, witches claw.

Ahh my pretty.


So yeah, that saving the okra seeds.

Super simple, super easy.

I have massive amounts of okra seeds, justmixed varieties, you know.

Some of the things I like to label, the varieties and so I knowwhat variety it is.

A lot of times I don’t really care about the varieties for me personallybecause I’m not trying to like keep this genetic diversity.

I want to create new diversity.

So by allowing my seeds and different varieties that I grow here to pollinate and mix, I’mcoming up with, you know, different and new genetic varieties that have adapted to myclimate here.

So that’s what I enjoy doing.

Although I know there’s some die hard seedsavers out there preserving certain genetics.

And hey I think that’s cool too.

But ofcourse, making new ones is, you know, the funnest for me.

Plus I don’t I’m not reallyinto labeling and all this stuff.

You know, I just like to just have seeds to grow andas long as it makes edible food, I’m happy with that.

So the next seeds I’m going to save arethese guys right here.

This is known to me originally as leaf ginseng, and then laterI looked it up and it’s known as the surinam spinach.

And what these guys are, I don’tknow if you guys could see that but it’s like it almost blends in with the background,since this is not a really best shot.

But it’s right here.

You guys could see thisis just basically the stalk of the plants and they have these little balls on the end.

And it’s inside these little balls are the seeds.

And each one of these balls is actuallya little seed pod.

So we’re going to go ahead and take one of these balls out verycarefully.

And what I’m going to do is I’m going to go ahead and take my hand and crushit.

And watch my hand here.

So you see on my hand now there’s these little tiny itsybitsy seeds.

If you guys are familiar with the grain teff, like these seeds are probablyabout as small or even smaller than teff seeds, which are actually quite small on their own.

So we’re just going to go ahead and carefully save these guys in a little container.

Theseguys will be really easy to sift out because they’ll fit through like a, you know, sievefrom my kitchen, to get rid of all the chaff and all the seed pods and all this kind ofstuff.

So the leaf ginseng or surinam spinach isactually another really good heat-tolerant leafy green to grow in the summer time herein LasVegas.

And it grows really easy.

Like I bought these plants once from a seller downin San Diego at Vista Farmers Market in San Diego area.

And I took it home and I grewit.

And it grew, I put it in my greenhouse and it just grew there, and then actuallywent to seed and sprouted in an unheated greenhouse, and grew year round.

It went to seed, it droppedseeds, and some of my potted plants in my greenhouse, I brought some of those plantshere.

i planted them and then randomly I’d have the leaf ginseng or surinam spinach comeup on me.

So like this right here is a 100% volunteer plant.

I did not plant it.

I don’teven know how the seed got here.

but now I’m happy to be saving seeds off this so I couldgrow this in a much larger way in this upcoming year.

Because this is another heat tolerantcrop.

So if you live in the tropics or if you live in a place where it’s really hotin the summer, South Florida, you know, places that you have problems growing lettuce, youwant to grow the surinam spinach as well as the next seed that I’ll be harvesting rightbehind me.

So actually let me go ahead and show you guys the last seed I’ll be harvestingin my garden today.

So the last seed I’ll be harvesting todayin this episode is this guy right here.

And I don’t know if you guys could see thaton the video, I don’t know what it look like for you in HD, but basically you couldsee there’s all these like little seed pod things hanging from the plant.

There’s like,there’s just so many of them.

This thing is like just so prolific in the seed podsand in the summer time it was also very prolific in the greens that it produced.

This is knownas the red stem malabar spinach.

And it makes delicious edible leaves that are really mildflavored, that have a nice red stem.

This is, this was beautiful over the summer.

Itfilled this trellis, it’s only like a 4 feet tall trellis, really nicely and evenwent to grow taller.

So next year I’ll have to even get a taller trellis for it to growbecause I’m sure it will fill that too.

And at the end of this season I was blessedwith all these berries to eat.

I’ll post a link down below to a video where actuallyI juiced the really anti-oxidant rich berry juice and drank that.

And it was an amazingdrink, lots of anti-oxidants, and I’m sure it did my body a lot of good.

But now thatthe seasons over and the plants dried out and I didn’t harvest all the berries, itmade also tons of seed pods.

And so all these on a stem are just like all seeds.

And I couldnow take these off and grow these for next year or share those with you guys.

I mean,seed saving is really easy, you know.

If you are into really seed saving I do recommendliving in an arid climate, it makes seed saving significantly easier, you don’t have toworry about mould and dampness and wetness and all this kind of stuff.

But even in a,you know, a moist climate where you get a lot more moisture and humidity, you couldstill do seed saving.

You just got to maybe, you know, dry the seeds out a little bit andwait till the weather is nice to harvest your seeds and not when it’s all wet and allthis kind of stuff.


So once again, seed saving is notrocket science.

If you could go out and you could see oh those are seeds, oh they’redry, oh they’re ready, you know, you could save seeds too.

And of course, yes there’ssome seeds that are more difficult to save than others.

But I think the main messageof this video is that I want you guys to save your seeds and share your seeds with othersso that they could grow, you know, healthy crops so you guys could eat out of your gardensinstead of out of the grocery store.

Now the final thing I’d like to say in thisepisode, I don’t have a lot of some of the seeds that i shared with you guys today onhow to harvest, to share with you guys.

But I do have actually a lot of the malabar spinachseeds.

I’ve been harvesting a whole bunch with some help here today.

And these are allthe seeds I’ve got so far and I still got like half the trellis to harvest out.

So ifyou want to get some of my seeds that I grew with the rock dust, with the good soil herethat’s more climatized to the hot desert than other varieties of malabar spinach thatyou just may be mail ordering, be sure to check that link down below.

I’m going toput this on my fiverr campaign.

So, you know, for $5 I’ll ship you some malabar spinachseeds and then you’ll be able to grow them yourself and the $5 that you give me for theseeds, I will not take a penny out of that, I will use all that money to get my videostranscribed so that people that are hearing impaired or that live in foreign countriesthat don’t understand English, can get that automatically transcribed into their languageso that they could have access to my very important videos in this day and age.

So onceagain, check the link down below, you know, for that.

So pretty much brings me to the end of thisepisode.

If you guys liked this episode, saw how to save 10 different varieties of seeds,hey please give me a thumbs up to let me know.

I’ll be doing more seed saving episodesin the future when I have different seeds to harvest because it happens like all thetime here.

And also be sure to click that Subscribe button right down below to be notifiedof my new and upcoming episodes.

I have new and upcoming episodes coming out about every3 to 4 days.

And of course, be sure to check my past episodes.

I have over 1100 episodesat this time to share with you guys how you guys could grow your own food at home.

AndI also travel all over to visit all kinds of farms and cool places all around the countryand around the world.

So once again, my name is John Kohler with growingyourgreens.


We’ll see you next time and until then remember- keep on growing.

Source: Youtube

hi I'm Stephen Orr and today we're goingto be growing herbs one of my favorite group of plants because you can reallyget a lot in a small space from them one of the unusual ways I like to go herbsis in a strawberry pot strawberry pots are designed with these little pocketsso that the strawberries could be planted here and here and as they putdown their little runners you put the new plants in these little pockets andit turns out herbs like to be in these as well I have one I made about sixweeks ago you can see the plants have grown in really nicelyone thing that herbs like about this pot is the excellent drainage you getbecause of all the pockets there's no standing water anywhere so start with astrawberry pot this one's nice and it's very very sweet but it's probably alittle small and also you have to water it a lot so this is a kind of a minimumsize I think and this is a nice size to this larger one first what we'll do isfill the strawberry pot.

this is gonna be really messy, don't be afraid soils goingto go everywhere.

we're using an ordinary potting mix that is well draining andorganic since we're gonna be eating these herbs.

don't over fertilize yourherbs in fact I don't fertilize them at all because the fertilizers make theplants grow too fast and you lose all the essential oils which with herbs arewhat give them flavor.

so as you're filling up your strawberry pot one ofthe things to look for is that you pack it down because all that's reallykeeping the soil in these pockets is the soil itself so just keep pressing downso that the soil kind of goes into the pockets on the outside.

leave a littlespace at the top as with most pots you want to leave an inch or two at the topso that you have plenty of room to water.

now the fun part so you can grow anyalmost any herb you win and grow! one of my favorite plants to grow in these kindof pots is thyme.

so you have this plant you can actually just kind of tug itapart and the plant won't mind just be kind of as careful as you canpulling it into two sections.

that becomes the small plant that can goin a pocket I'm going to start this one at the top then we can add somethingtall like this basil.

then we'll add a sage we could put this sage in a pocketso you want to make a smaller root ball get rid of the extra soil and then putthat right in there.

be careful with the plants but theyactually can take a fair amount of abuse most of them are pretty tough.

basilis a little bit less tough the thyme and oregano and stuff like that is verytough so you can't really harm them too much and you know these are great forkitchen herbs all of these are used for cooking so it's really nice to haveright outside your back door so you can run out when you're you know making anomelet and grab some herbs.

since you're clipping them that keeps them smaller aswell so you don't really have to worry too much about the herbs over growingtheir spot because you're gonna be cutting them all the time.

As you finish planning the last pockets just you know take a look see where youmight need to add some soil back in you can pop some soil in the top.

as youwater you'll notice that the water is flowing out of all the holes so overtime some soil may leech out so it's good to be able to replenish that oncein a while but you know once every few weeks you can pop a little soil back in.

As your plants grow you know some of them get a little large you could alwaysmove them out of the pot but also some of them will start blooming like thesebasil's and you want to be sure you cut these flowers off because flowers signalto the plant to stop making leaves and obviously with basil you want as manyleaves as possible.

so once you're finished just keep this in full sun,water it when it's dry, and what's so nice about that is you have all thesedifferent flavors in such a tiny space.

Source: Youtube

Posted by in growing herbs Tags: , , , , , , , , , , on Sep 13, 2019

Herbs make anymeal taste better, especially when they're pickedfresh from your own garden.

I'll show you how to plantand care for a herb garden, so you'll have a goodsupply for the kitchen.

Herbs can be planted atany time of the year.

but some are seasonal, socheck the tag before you plant.

You can plant straightinto garden beds or in pots inside and out.

Plant somewherewith lots of light and in a place thatdoesn't get too wet.

Good drainage isreally important, too.

Also think about locatingthem in a handy place close to your kitchen.

There are two types of herbs— annuals like parsley,basil, and coriander need to be replanted each year.

Perennials likethyme and rosemary can live for morethan two years.

And one plant of eachherb type is generally enough for your garden.

That will give you spacefor more variety, too.

Herbs don't do well in soilthat's overly rich or dense, so grab some of this herbmix, which is nice and coarse, and work it throughyour existing soil.

We've laid out all of our herbs.

Put them roughly 30 to50 centimeters apart to give them a littlebit of room for growth.

We've put things like thymeand rosemary on the edges because they do take upa little bit more room.

Thyme can also crawlover the sides, so you're alsooptimizing on that space, not overcrowding themiddle of the garden.

And a handy tip ifyou're growing mint– plant it in a separatepot, as it tends to run and take over a bed.

Next, dig your holes.

Now, it's a good idea, beforeplanting any herb into a bed, to soak it in a seaweed tonic.

This just helps reduce thestress from the transplant into the ground.

And just gently take it out,pop it in the hole, backfill, and then gently press down.

And finally, watering.

Herbs also make greatcompanion plants, which means that when plantedalongside certain other plants, they help deter insects, attractpollinators, and can even improve the flavor ofthe neighboring plant.

For example, basil is greatplanted next to tomatoes.

There's a detailed list of someof these effective combinations on our web site.

Water your herbs regularly,and if they're in pots, make sure they don't dry out.

Feed every couple of weekswith some veggie and herb liquid plant food.

It has the right NPKratio for herbs plants with an extra dose ofnitrogen in for their foliage.

Adding a layer of mulch willhelp keep the roots moist and keep the bed weed free.

Herbs aren't generallyaffected by pests and diseases.

But if you've got yoursindoors, then lack of sunlight and airflow canreduce plant productivity and attract insectslike white fly.

If you spot anything you'renot sure of, just take a photo and bring it in store,and we'll sort you out with the right product.

So when harvestingyour herbs, there's a few different ways to do it.

With thyme, try andwork from the outside in because it's a bit ofa twiggier kind of herb.

With more leafyherbs, like parsley, harvest the whole leaf.

And with chives,it's a good idea to harvest them roughly twocentimeters from the base.

And then with somethinglike rosemary, that tends to form asort of a woodier shrub, it's a good idea to keepit more compact so you'll get more new growth at the top.

Harvest these shoots becausethey've got the best flavor.

With the annual herbs, likebasil, parsley, and coriander, pick flowers as soon asyou see them to stop them from going to seed.

If they do, the flavortends to change, and they can become bitter.

And that's how to create yourvery own herb garden, easy as.

Now, it's time to digout the cookbooks.

Source: Youtube

Posted by in seed saving Tags: , , , , , , , on Sep 13, 2019

So right now we're going to pick the tomato and what we try to do is pick a nice big one because if you pick big Tomatoes that's the ones you'll get a better seed out of.

And the reason this one is so juicy is because it set down there long enough and it's so ripe that it's caused it but it will not hurt for what I'm wanting to do with it so now we're getting ready to deseed the tomato to save the seeds for next year's tomatoes now I'm going to take the core out because it's easier on these big Tomatoes if you remove the core then i'm going to remove this because i don't want to mess with that part OK now this is how we do it it's a messy job but it works so now i'm going to separate it because it's easier for me to get in and scrape out the seeds that are still there like all these the reason we're saving the seeds from this tomato because it's an heirloom and it's cheaper to save our own seeds and and we like this tomato but the reason we don't do it from hybrid seed from tomatoes is because the seed doesn't always come out the same in the way we do it.

There is going to be good seeds in here and there is going to be bad seeds so if the more seeds you get hopefully the better.

I use a glass container because as this progresses the next five days there will be a separation the heavy stuff will will go to the top the seeds to go to the bottom and you'll have a clear water solution in between in the process will take three to five days to work This will separate the good seeds will start dropping to the bottom there will be liquid in between more like water and the base will come up higher as it ferments bad seeds rise good seeds drop now that we have went through the process of separation and the mold on top now we'll go through and clean everything off because the good seeds are down here and the bad seeds are up in here and you just dispose of this anyway you can dispose of it just down the kitchen sink or if you got a washroom and you want to drain slow and catch your seeds if they come out.

The kind of strainer i use is a tea strainer then you run water over it to try to get as much of it as you can because all the seeds have to be washed and you just take and turn them upside down and dump them out so now we just separate them and then starting tomorrow i will move them around so the water will evaporate twice a day at least and we'll do this anywhere from three to four days until we're pretty sure that they're dry now we're going to put them in a container and we're going to put them in a cool dark place for the winter and we're going to use a dryer to keep the seeds dry through the through the winter so i can plant them and they won't sprout inside the container and there's hundreds of seeds in there and we're going to plant them next spring and hopefully we will get a tomato and we can enjoy the fruit later on in the summer.

Source: Youtube

Hi I'm Shawna CoronadoWelcome to Easy as 123 Gardening Tips Today we are going to talk aboutbolting It happens in every gardenYou have these beautiful herbs like this oregano hereand it develops a flower on the topBolting is when your plant sets flower Your leafy vegetableyour herb like this oreganoor maybe your dill and when the plantsset flower what happens isthey are developing their seeds all the productiongoes into seed production and then youlose the leaf you do not get as muchleaf we want more leafand to get that what you need to do is go in and trim the plant downwow this smells delicious and this is the simply herb dillwonderful now you can use this in a flowerarrangement or toss it away and put it in your composterwhen you cut off all these extra flowers it enables more leaf to grownow another way to prevent bolting is to mulch your plantsyou want to keep your roots cool so those are my two favoritetips for preventing the bolting process ultimately all your plants are goingto want to bolt if you want to let them boltwhat happens is they can become pollinating plantsand right here we have a lovely oregano you can seethe adorable little pink flower it can look quite beautiful in the gardenand it also attracts bees soyour herb garden can be good to eat and it can be goodfor the pollinators thanks for joining me foreasy as 123 gardening tips come back next time for morefun ideas sponsored by wave petunias.

Source: Youtube

How to save gourd seed for next season Friends firstly let’s get aware of the things required for the purpose Saw Newspaper or a big plastic sheet piece Hand gloves A completely dried Bottle Gourd Now to remove seeds first of all spread the newspaper or plastic sheet on ground and if it is breezy then place some weight on corners Now take the saw and start cutting the gourd from topmost tip of it from where it was dangling at the vine After cutting turn the gourd so as to make the seeds to fall on the paper Now we have to separate the waste material from the seeds and clean them as well.

If the gourd is not completely dry from inside then break it completely and keep the collected seeds from it in sunlight to dehydrate/dry them.

Now you can see that seeds are completely dry and free from other organic material After this, the seeds are not to be dried furthermore otherwise their own inner moisture will be removed and they will take more time to sprout while sowing.

Now we have to collect these seeds as per our convenience safely and will sow them at their appropriate time As we have collected the seeds so we will not have to purchase them in next season So by this process, a lot of our money and time will be saved Moreover, these seeds are procured in a natural way without any chemical intervention So these seeds are organic and better in many subtle ways.

Source: Youtube

Every winter, I get itchy to start planting seeds, because I want to get my garden growing – even though the snow is outside, or it's cold weather.

So in today's video I'm going to walk you through exactly what to do to start seeds indoors so that you will have a fantastic garden that's ready to go as early as possible in the season.

So stick with me to the end of this video and you'll see exactly what it is you need to do to be successful with growing seeds indoors.

Now, first of all, the question is "why would you want to do this?" Well, mostly, you would start seeds indoors for plants that like warmer weather.

So particularly things like tomatoes and peppers, which love warm weather, and they're not going to germinate until the ground has gotten to a certain temperature.

So if you plant them directly outside it's gonna be really late in the season before you get anything growing on those plants.

In fact, you might not even get tomatoes or peppers depending on where you're living.

So you're gonna want to start those in advance Other plants, like Lettuce and spinach and peas and beans and corn and things – those are going to go straight into the garden you don't need to start them indoors.

But there are a lot of other vegetables and flowers and some herbs that you want to start inside.

In the notes underneath this video we have for you a download showing you when to start what.

Which plants should be started inside, which ones can you put directly into the garden.

And usually the date at which you decide to plant your seedlings indoors or outdoors has to do with the expected last frost date in your area.

It's going to be different for everybody so again underneath this video right down there, we have a link for you that allows you to find when the last frost is expected in your part of the country.

So that's going to determine when you plant different types of seeds So what do you need to grow seeds indoors? Well, it's pretty simple.

You only need a few things.

You need something to plant your seeds in, you need some kind of seed starting mix, you need water, and you need heat.

That's pretty much it.

So let's start with the seed starting mix – what are you going to plant this in? Now there are a lot of different types of seed starting mixes out there.

We actually tested a ton of them and, again, down there is a link to our review of over a dozen different types of seed starting mixes and the one that I really like best is this one from Coast of Maine organic seed starter but there are lots of other good ones out there as well.

A few things to keep in mind: First, never use garden soil.

We tried that as well you know people are always saying, "yeah, sure, you can try it!" It's got all sorts of insects and pathogens in it that especially you're starting your seeds indoors, you don't want to bring that inside.

It's also less likely that your seeds are going to germinate in that mix, so just don't do it.

Potting mix similarly It can work but it's not going to be as optimal of a growing environment for your seedlings as a seed starting mix – one that's specifically built for it.

So this is the one we're going to use today.

A few things to keep in mind: First of all, when it comes out of the bag, it's dry – it's really dry, and you need to moisten it.

So what I do is I put the seed starting mix into a large trug So you can see here – you can put it into anything but you're gonna want to add moisture to it – water – and it's probably gonna take a lot more water than you think it is to make it nice and moist.

If you're only planting a few seeds obviously you don't need something as big as this; a bowl will do, but make sure you're not just using it straight out of out of the bag.

Now people do do that – they put this into the seed trays and then they water it.

The problem with that is it doesn't absorb moisture very easily when it's dry, so if you're just going to water it on top you'll get parts of your mix that are wet and part of it that is dry and that will never work properly.

Your seedlings won't grow very well so always moisten the soil first.

Make sure when you do that that it isn't too wet, so when you squeeze it, you don't want water to come dripping out.

If it does, it's too wet.

Add some more dry mix.

And when you bounce it in your hand it should fall apart If it doesn't hold together at all, it's too dry.

So that's kind of the test is it too wet or is it too dry you want to just right.

It holds together a little bit, it doesn't squeeze water out, and when you bounce it it falls apart.

You've got your seat starting mix nice and moist and ready to go, what are you gonna put it in? So this is something that you've probably seen; you can get these in every hardware store, big box, garden center or any of those things, and it is a very simple system.

You've got a tray a waterproof tray so that keeps things the water in there Then you have a bunch of these plastic cells these plastic trays.

They're pretty flimsy, they've got holes in the bottom and they fit in there.

And then you have a greenhouse cover that goes on top.

That's important because it's gonna keep the moisture in So while seeds are germinating, you want them to be in a nice moist – not wet – but moist environment and the easiest way to do that is to cover it with something like this.

You could also use a plastic bag, you can use Saran wrap, you can use pretty much anything you can find that's gonna keep the moisture in, but nice and easy this way.

Now this is what a lot of people use, and there's nothing really wrong with it unless you're a pretty lazy gardener like me.

I tend to forget to water things which means that these dry out on me.

You're gonna put the water underneath, you're gonna put these in there and, I find, I come and my seedlings are all wilting because I forgot to water it.

So, I like a all-in-one self watering system.

So this is one of my favorite ones.

It's got the same components, generally speaking.

Here is the seed tray.

Now this one is from Gardener's Supply.

It's their Deep Root Seed Starting tray, or as part of a kit you can get it as well.

I like it because these cells are bigger, right? You can see the difference in size.

What that means is that, as the seedlings develop in here, I don't need to transplant them into a larger pot.

So when you start them in something like this, you're probably going to transplant them into something bigger like this to grow on before you then put them into the garden.

If you put them directly from here, either they won't have enough roots and they'll be too small and they'll just get flattened or blown over or die in your garden, or you've left them in here too long the roots have all wrapped around and they're also going to be less likely to survive when you plant them out.

So starting in this, you probably do want to transplant up into something bigger.

That's why I like this.

It's larger; I don't have to transplant.

This also comes with a watering tray You can see, I use that quite a lot.

I really need to wash it before i use it again.

You want to use clean seed starting equipment right? Partially, you don't want any bacteria, fungus anything from last year or since then to infect your seeds as you're growing them, so i gotta clean this.

One thing I like about this, it's dishwasher safe so I could just rinse it stick it in the top of my dishwasher as well as this, and that will essentially sterilize them.

Otherwise what you're probably going to do is you're going to use a water and bleach solution – ten percent bleach – to wash all of your seed starting trays before you use them again.

So this, I could do that, right, and water it that way.

What I like with this system though is that it has this sort of platform or tray that goes in there just like that and this sits on top so the bottom of these containers are not sitting directly in water.

So then the question is, "how does the water get from down here into the seedlings?" and that's where this comes in.

This is the capillary mat.

It's a piece of special fabric and you lay it in here on top and you make sure that one end of it is hanging over and it's sitting in the water in the tray underneath.

And what that's going to do is it's going to wick the water from underneath up across the entire surface of this capillary mat so this is going, to be wet.

You now put that on top and the moist seed starting mix that's in these cells is then going to wick water from the capillary mat up into your seedlings.

So it's a really nice system you can't overwater this way.

The problem with with these is the bottom is sitting in water.

You know, I've over-watered them many many times, and then you get all sorts of problems with fungus gnats and molds and all sorts of dead seedlings, which you don't want.

This kind of a system prevents that from happening.

So i really like that.

It also has a greenhouse cover.

Then I have some other systems as well.

This is one I've had, it's a very similar type of self watering system.

I've had this one for about 15 years I think.

I got it from Lee Valley and it's the same sort of idea.

So you have your water reservoir in the bottom, and then you have your table, your platform with your capillary mat.

This one is structured a little different, it hangs off the sides it sits in there.

This is what you plant your seeds in, and then it has a greenhouse cover.

There are a couple of extra features on this system that I really like, and one is this right here So this allows you to see how much water is in the tray underneath.

This little indicator.

Inside is a little float.

As you fill the tray with water, the red thing moves up and you can see when it's time to water.

Which is great because then you're not gonna run out of water in here.

The other thing I like and you can't see it so well with that, is that there are openings on both ends here to fill the tray with water.

So it makes it much easier to water it.

You don't have to pick the whole thing up to fill it with water.

The final thing I really like about this, is when you are ready to transplant your seedlings – they've grown and you're gonna transplant them – instead of having to poke them all out from the bottom, you simply turn this upside down, do that, and it will push your soil blocks right out of here.

You just grab them and plant them.

Perfect! Nice and easy.

This is this is one system that I really like.

Now there are lots of other similar sorts of systems out there.

One that I've had for a long time is something a little bigger.

This is called the Bio Dome.

this is from Park Seed.

You can see I have it labeled with all sorts of things I've been planting.

It's got vents on top so you can control the amount of air circulation and moisture inside this, and you can put any seed trays you want inside this bottom reservoir here.

Now these are all systems that you buy.

They range from this this jiffy 72 cell pack was about eight bucks to twenty five, thirty, forty dollars for a system like this.

But you don't need to spend that kind of money, so if money is the issue absolutely don't bother with this, You can do this yourself.

You don't need anything fancy.

One thing I do recommend is that you have some sort of water proof tray to put underneath all your seed starting stuff.

This is a boot tray.

This isn't even specifically for seed starting and when you have this, all of your seed starting kits can fit inside this.

So that's great; you're not gonna get wet water everywhere.

but you can also do other things.

So let's say you decide you want to start with peat pellets instead.

So some people do this, you put a seed in here you just stick it in water and it expands – that's one option.

You, can use peat or in this case these are cow pots so this is cow manure, basically, pots – biodegradable – the idea being that as the seedlings develop and the roots start to come out the sides you just put this whole thing in the ground and it biodegrades and fertilizes the plant as its growing.

You can use those.

You can start seeds in plastic containers, styrofoam cups, anything.

This is just a yogurt container.

Poke some holes in the bottom, you put your seed starting mix in it – there you go.

Now you would want to cover this with Saran wrap or a plastic bag you just kind of put it on top like that like a dome, as your as your greenhouse.

Or you can use any sort of recyclable plastic things.

This is, Jack's spinach was in this.

You poke some holes in the bottom, you would fill it with about that much potting mix – you you really don't need much, an inch or two something like that, sow your seeds in it, put the lid back on, put it in your tray so you can water it from the bottom.

One of the things with all of these it's really important to keep in mind that you need to water from the bottom.

If you're watering from on top like with a watering can or something, you're going to end up flattening your seedlings as they emerge.

The seeds will wash away and won't be in the trays where you put them, so you're always going to water from the bottom and that's why you like that tray.

Okay so that's what you grow your seeds in lots of different options.

The next thing seeds need for germination many of them, at least the ones that you're going to grow indoors, is heat so if you're growing in, say, a colder garage or maybe you're growing in like i grow them out here outdoors and we're in Tucson right now and It's cool at night.

It gets down to about 50.

That's a little on the cold side.

But in the day it's in the 70s which is perfect, so I can do that but you need to give your seedlings some supplemental heat, and the easiest way to do that is with a seedling heat mat.

It arrives rolled up, you you plug it in, and it heats up.

It's not waterproof.

It's water resistant.

So don't submerge it in the water.

Don't put it in the bath to wash it or something like that, but if it gets wet it's fine.

So you can throw your seeds directly on this.

If you want you to put your containers on it, I prefer to put the seed mat underneath the waterproof tray.

What this does is it heats up to 85, 90 degrees maybe and it heats the soil, the seed starting mix in your containers.

It heats that up as well.

There are some seeds, particularly things again like tomatoes and peppers, that need to be at maybe about 85 degrees (the soil) in order to germinate.

So without this heat mat you're unlikely to get the soil warm enough to successfully germinate your seeds.

Or if you do manage to without the heat mat you're going to be much more successful with the heat mat.

Now these come in different sizes; this one's four feet long 22 inches 20 inches and I use it because one of these will fit on it and I can stack a lot of them side-by-side.

This one runs about a hundred bucks so it's not cheap.

It's well worth it if you're going to be starting a lot of seeds.

You can buy it anywhere – on Amazon a lot of companies sell these and make them.

So far I haven't found any real differences between the different brands.

They're all essentially the same, so go with whatever you can find.

If this is something that isn't in your budget, there are other things you can do to create a warm environment for your seeds.

Seeds don't need light in order to germinate, so you can put them, for example, in a closet.

Maybe you've got a warm closet that's next to the hot-water heater or the furnace or something like that put your seedlings in there.

You can put them on top of the fridge.

That generates quite a lot of heat.

You can put them beside your computer or your TV – but be really careful with that – you don't want to short out your system by getting it wet.

Another option is to use a metal tray or a metal shelf and put this on it and put an incandescent light bulb underneath.

A 40 watt what bulb should do it.

It has to be incandescent so that can be you know those old-fashioned light bulbs or a halogen bulb.

An LED isn't going to do it because it doesn't give off heat, nor do fluorescent lights really.

So, again, it has to be an incandescent light bulb, to heat that up.

I sometimes get asked, "well if it needs heat, can I put this in front of a sunny window?" That's going to get really nice and warm during the day and that's true it might get really nice and warm during the day, but what happens at night? Generally, as the temperatures go down outside, that window – unless it's some triple insulated thing – it's going to get cold and it's going to cool down your seeds to below the temperature at which they're going to germinate.

So I don't recommend trying to germinate in say a south or west facing window and expecting it to heat things up.

So the next step then is filling up your seed trays with potting mix.

So let's go ahead and do that.

So iIm just gonna fill my tray with the pre-moistened mix.

I'm not gonna pack it in there or anything I'm just going to lightly put it in like that and then what I'm gonna do is each one of these, I'm just going to lightly push down the center.

Nothing too hard, I just want to make sure there are no air pockets in there.

And then I'm going to fill it one more time.

And again I'm not going to pack it in there.

I'm just going to flatten it out like that okay and that is all there is to it.

I'm just gonna go ahead and fill all of them right now.

Well, there we go! We have all of the 72 cells full of seed starting mix just lightly tapped down a bit so that it's not gonna blow away.

The process that you used to fill this is exactly the same as you would do with larger ones.

So if I was filling something like this, for example, I would do the same process.

Lightly fill it, push down the center, lightly fill it again.

So the next step then is to actually sow the seeds.

You're going to find your seeds.

I have a ton of seeds I'm going to be growing this year.

I have a lot of hot peppers.

Jack likes hot hot hot peppers, so we've been growing Trinidad Scorpion and Ghost Pepper and this year I'm growing for him Carolina Reaper.

Now this is the hottest hot pepper out there (supposedly even more hot than the ghost pepper) so we're gonna try that.

Every seed packet should tell you on the back how long it's going to take to germinate.

Now not all of them do, this one, these seeds are from Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds they don't say it.

I get a lot of seeds from Renée's Garden.

They're terrific; they have a ton of information on the back, exactly when to sow it, how deep, how far apart I want to germinate – all of that kind of information.

It's terrific.

Botanical Gardens is another one that has a lot of seeds, and they'll put that information on as well.

So look for that information if it's there.

These are pretty small seeds, so you're going to want to just lightly cover them when you sow them.

You're not going to push them way down into the middle.

Although peppers are pretty resilient.

You can poke that thing down about half an inch and it will probably still germinate, but for best germination, just going to lightly lay it on the surface.

I'm going to put two seeds in each cell.

Now you don't have to do that and for larger plants, ones that come up really quickly and have very very big seedlings, I wouldn't do that, but for something smaller like this I'm going to put two in each cell.

I'm doing that because there's a chance that they won't germinate.

So by putting two in each cell, the end result is I'm probably going to have one nice strong seedling in each of these cells.

If they both come up, by the time they have their first set of true leaves, what i'm going to do is I'm going to pull out or cut off the spindlier, thinner or weaker one, get rid of it, and let the stronger one grow.

Let me just go ahead and put these seeds in.

So they're just laying on the surface right now and I go to just make sure they're nice and firmly there, some of them are going under.

Then what I'm gonna do is I'm going to take a little bit of mix and just spread it on top like that.

So that they're covered but just a little bit and that's it.

We now have Carolina Reaper seeds in here.

The question is how am I ever gonna know that? So one thing – don't forget to do – is put labels on your seedlings or your seeds.

You have a lot of different options.

For example, here's these little wooden they're kind of like popsicle sticks, but they're sold specifically for seeds.

But you don't need to get the ones that are shaped like this, you can buy just regular popsicle sticks or craft sticks at craft stores.

Hardware stores sometimes have them, and you'd simply write on it the name of what you've planted, and stick it in there.

You can also use these are just plastic tags that have come out of plants that I bought.

Write on the back with the seeds that you're planting.

You can get all sorts of different sizes.

This is another seed tag label thing that I bought.

Now something to keep in mind is, as you're doing that, don't forget you've got to put your greenhouse cover on top.

You want to make sure that those seed labels aren't too tall.

This one isn't going to work.

What I recommend is make sure before you stick these in that they're short enough, and something like this – what I would do is, I've simply cut it in half and then I have two for the price of one.

And there you go.

You can write on these with pencil, a china marker, a sharpie.

Something indelible or that isn't gonna run because they're gonna get kind of moist when you've got the greenhouse lid on.

You don't want to come back in a few weeks and realize you can't read what it says on here.

The plastic ones are a little easier that way.

You can use a sharpie or a pencil actually works really well on these.

These wooden ones you know, when you do transplant these into your garden, these wooden ones probably aren't going to last very long.

So what I normally do, if I want to know what these plants are when I transplant them, I'm going to use something like this.

And I write on it with either a sharpie or a china marker, and stick that in with the plant because these tend to fall apart and kind of disintegrate over the season.

So okay so these are Carolina Reapers.

Now, once I've got my seeds all set up in there I'm going to give a very light mist Just so that the surface is nice and moist.

Now you don't want to make it wet.

You don't want anything sopping wet at any time, just keep it nice and moist and put the lid on it.

The other thing I'm going to do is I'm going to water it and when you have your seeds in here, you don't want to water from on top.

A lot of people will do that.

They'll get out a watering can or something and try to water from on top.

There are a couple of problems with that.

First being you start watering on top and you wash away the seeds.

Or if you actually have seedlings that have come up already, you're gonna flatten them, you're gonna break them.

You don't want to do that so it's not as good to water from on top.

The other thing with watering from on top is you can't really tell how much water you've put in, and you could find that you're ending up with water sitting in the bottom of this container and you're going to end up with fungal problems.

Mold, fungus, gnats all sorts of nasty things.

You don't want that so with these it's a little harder.

You're gonna have to lift it up and you're going to pour in enough water.

Maybe a quarter of the way up to the sides of the cells every time you water.

And it should absorb it all.

If, after 15 minutes, you come and take a look and there's still water in the bottom, pour that off.

You don't want this sitting in water.

That's all there is to it for starting seeds! In our next video, I'm going to show you what happens when these seeds germinate, because when they start to come up you're gonna need to do a few things differently.

First of all, you're gonna take it off the heat.

You don't need heat any more.

But then there are some things that your plants absolutely need at that point and there's one extra little thing that many people don't know about, but that makes a real difference in having really strong, stocky plants that are going to do really well.

Thank you for coming and looking at this video and if you want to see what happens next, why don't you subscribe to our YouTube channel? You'll get all of our seed starting videos.

You can also visit gardeningproductsreview.

Com, that's our website.

You'll find these videos there as well, with detailed notes,downloads, all sorts of links, and where you can buy things, as well as a ton of other resources and – just like it sounds like -reviews of products including all of the seed starting things that you see right here.

Source: Youtube

Hello, Joydeep here, with another exciting episode on gardening.

In today's episode, I will show you how to collect and save your own bell pepper seeds from a market bought bell pepper, so that you will grow your own bell pepper.

Here I have 2 bell peppers, green and yellow.

Green bell peppers are not yet ripe.

Yellow bell peppers are ripe already and therefore we will collect seeds from ripe bell pepper.

In market, you can also find red color bell peppers which are also ripe and ready for seed collection.

But I find yellow bell pepper interesting in color, so I will collect yellow bell pepper seeds.

I keep aside the green one.

Now I will show you where you will find the seeds.

With this green part, bell pepper is attached to its plant.

Seed pod is inside and attached to this outer green part.

Now, to collect the seeds, I will use a knife to cut bell pepper vertically.

< Too much resistance from the bell pepper 😀 > < But futile was its resistance 😀 > I cut it into two halves Now I will show you where to find the seeds.

As you can see many seeds are attached into the seedpod which is connected to the green part outside.

Hope you can see that so many seeds are there.

Now I simply scratch very gently the seedpod which is holding many seeds.

By doing this, seeds will be detached from the seedpod As you can see seeds have been fallen inside.

Now I will place these seeds on a paper.

Do the same for the other part of the bell pepper and place the remaining seeds on the paper.

We can get some good plants from these many seeds, So these are the bell pepper seeds, very easy to collect and save.

The seeds are big enough to trace.

Now the seeds are needed to be dried naturally before we pack and place in a seed container.

For that we can place them in open air for drying.

After these are dried, you can pack, label and keep the packet away from humidity and direct light.

This method is super easy to collect your own bell pepper seeds for your future bell pepper plant.

Till next gardening video, take care all of you!.

Source: Youtube

Posted by in seed saving Tags: , , , , on Sep 13, 2019

There are many lettuce varieties you can choose from.

Why not mix up the colors and textures, so your salad looks really pretty on the plate? If you're a beginner gardener or sowing seeds for the first time Lettuce has to be one of the easiest veggies you can grow.

It's a fantastic choice when you're just getting started You can sow your seeds straight into seed raising mix in a pot or seed raiser and just cover lightly with mix Always, sow a few more seeds than you need, as an 'insurance policy'! Once the seeds germinate Allow them to grow two 'true leaves' and then you can harvest them as Microgreens Healthy food you can eat, while you're waiting for the other seedlings to mature But when your lettuce harvest finishes Your plant is still going to keep on giving It will grow a stem, flowers and gift you free seeds.

So let's take a quick look at how easy it is to save your own lettuce seeds for sowing.

These lettuce are ready to harvest the seeds As you can see, they've got really fine little seed heads on top of them where the flowers have dried out So all I've got to do Is allow these to fully dry and snip this off and put it in the bag and allow it to dry.

Or, as you can see On this one I can simply Rub it off in my hand And there, as you can see, are lettuce seeds! It's as easy as that for saving lettuce seeds.

Or just allow them to spread around in your garden And simply take them off by hand and then scatter them, which is what I'm going to do now.

Just sprinkle them into some moist soil and It'll be sprouting within a few days because we're in the right moon cycle But that's how easy it is to save lettuce seeds.

You'll get bees into your garden to feed on the flowers And then you're gonna have LOTS more free food! Go give it give it a go.

Source: Youtube

Posted by in seed saving Tags: , , , , , , , on Sep 13, 2019

Welcome to Parna Garden.

It has been a while since I last uploaded the last gardening video.

Because I have been busy with work and travel.

Now that I'm back, I would like to show to how to collect seeds from the vegetables grown in your home garden and save them to start plants for the next growing season.

Also, we will take a quick tour of the garden up until frost hit this week and my recent harvest from the first week of December.

This is a winter melon You may have seen this variety of winter melon in my harvest video I'm going to cut this winter melon open and collect the seeds before I could use it for cooking You can also make winter melon juice, and it is known to be beneficial for people suffering from acidity.

This is how the inside of a winter melon looks like.

It has many fairly large seeds.

You can collect these seeds in a bowl, wash them, and dry them under the sun.

and then finally store it in salable plastic bags.

I'm going to take a small portion of this winter melon for today's use, and I'm going to collect seeds from that smaller piece.

The rest of the winter melon goes to the refrigerator and it can stay there for at least a week.

As you can see here, the small portion of winter melon itself has a lot more seeds than you would require for a small backyard garden Here, I'm going to harvest dried pods of yard long beans, also known as Asian long beans.

These dry bean pods are very easy to work with just bare hands As you can see here, when you split the bean pod open, the beans pop out and you can collect them to start the seedlings for the next growing season.

They can also be used for cooking This is a ridge gourd If you let it stay in the vine for long, it tuns dry and brown like this.

You an cut the large end of this ridge gourd and shake it for all the seeds to come out easily.

Clean the seeds of husk and save them to start your next year's ridge gourd plats This is a plant of green chillies.

As I have not harvested all of the green chillies, they have ripened and turned red.

These red chillies can be dried under the sun for a few days and then stored in air tight containers for future use in the kitchen or for starting new seedlings for the next growing season This is a bitter gourd, also known as bitter melon.

When it turns into this beautiful orange color.

and the pod starts opening by itself.

Inside this pod you will see a lot of seeds covered in red pulp.

You can take these seeds and throw it into water, and squeeze the pulp out of them.

The seeds inside are light brown in color as you can see here.

You can dry these seeds for a day or two and then save then for the next season.

To collect seeds from this ripe shooting star eggplant, I am gong to throw it into this container and add water to kit, then set aside for a few days so it becomes mushy and the seeds separate easily.

Here are the separated and cleaned seeds that I'm going to strain now and dry them under the sun on top of a paper towel After the seeds are dry, you can store them and use them next year for starting your eggplant seedlings Here is a tip to speed up this process – If you make a couple of cuts in the eggplant before you immerse it in water it becomes mushy faster and you can separate the seeds sooner.

Lets collect some okra seeds.

Here is my okra patch towards the end of the season with some okra pods that have gone to seed which means these okra pods have stayed on the plant until they became dry and brown.

These pods are filled with lots of okra seeds.

As you can see here, I am trying to open it with one hand Because I have the camera on the other But you can see, there are lot of black round okra seeds inside each of these pods Here is a close up view of the okra seeds that I collected These are Shankhapushpa flowers from my garden They grow in vines.

After the flowers drop, the plant produces pods filled with seeds.

When the pods are brown, they are ready to be harvested.

When you harvest the pods, sometimes they split open and you can see the seeds Typically each pod has 6 – 7 seeds and they are very easy to open with just one hand These are the seeds collected from the vegetables and flowers grown in my backyard garden in the year 2017.

It is important to label the seeds that you collect and also mark the year in which you collect them.

Because after a few years, the germination rate of the seeds may go down and you not get the expected result after sowing the seed and waiting for a few weeks for it to emerge Here, I am going to store all of these seed packets in a shoe box and set it aside for the next growing season.

Now on to garden tour.

First, let's take a look at this tomato plants growing in containers.

These were planted in spring and they have already produced a lot of tomatoes in early summer this year Now , towards the end of fall and early winter, they are producing second round of tomatoes.

And some of them are not going to be ready before the first frost in my area.

These are indeterminate variety of tomato plats, and they grow up until the first frost.

As we experienced higher than usual temperature in early winter this year the bell pepper plants have been producing a lot of peppers.

You can see multiple plants of bell peppers here making baby peppers in early December.

In addition to bell peppers, the green chillie plant has been producing a lot of green chillies.

Also, the poblano pepper is making peppers too.

Here is an over ripe bitter gourd that has split open on its own and its seeds are about to fall into the ground Hyacinth bean plant has been putting out a lot of bean pods towards the end of fall and up until the first frost It is producing a lot of flowers and fresh bean pods This plant has gone up on the fence and you can see at the top, there are a lot of flowers and fresh beans This garden bed had tomatoes and winter melon earlier this year.

After their production, I have pulled these plants out.

Here in this area, luffa is still producing.

Also, hyacinth beans are producing bean pods These vegetables were harvested from my garden in the first week of December just a few days before the temperature went below freezing and killed all the vegetables plants in my garden On the night of December 7th, the temperature in my area went below freezing It went down to -5 degrees Celsius, which is equivalent to 23 degrees Fahrenheit.

Here is how my garden looked the next morning.

Although I had covered these chillies and peppers with plastic sheeting, it did not save them from the cold.

Thank you for stopping by and viewing this video of Parna Garden.

If you like this video and would like to get notified of future videos from Parna Garden, please hit the like and subscribe button below.

Source: Youtube

All my friends welcome to Asim Nawaz Gardening Channel.

September month starts now.

Next couple of day’s best weather to sow winter vegetables as well as flowering seeds.

In my opinion the quality of best gardener to sow new variety of vegetables as well as flowering seeds which they can never sow as an first experience Also sow last year saving vegetables and flowering seeds too.

Saving seeds of vegetables and flowers can germinate upto 1 o 2 years.

As you seen in the catalog there are three varieties of cherry tomatoes.

The topic of video is How to make saving in winter sowing Cherry Tomatoes Seeds.

First one Black Cherry tomatoes Second one Red Cherry tomatoes Last one Yellow Cherry tomatoes.

Last year I sow Yellow and Red Cherry tomatoes.

Black Cherry Tomatoes is new variety of tomatoes.

This winter I plan to sow it.

Here you saw Yellow cherry tomatoes.

It’s not fresh cherry tomatoes.

In ending June, harvest Yellow Cherry tomatoes.

Save it also.

As an experiment I sow Yellow Cherry tomatoes in monsoon season.

A video of Seeds Germination of Cherry Tomatoes in monsoon season is in description box of this video.

Easily seeds geminates of cherry tomatoes Here you can seen seedling of Yellow Cherry Tomatoes.

Same as I can save Red Cherry tomatoes and also dry other tomatoes for next growing season.

Next coming days when you sow cherry tomatoes first remove upper skin.

Place in tissue paper.

When tissue paper absorb the entire tomato juice.

Place in sunlight for 1 or 2 days.

After that you sow seed of cherry tomatoes.

Hope so you like this video.

Kindly like and subscribe my channel to keep in touch next coming videos.

Bye Asim Nawaz.

Source: Youtube

Hi, I'm Gardener Scott.

Many of us grow carrots in our home gardens and almost all of us buy packets of seeds for those carrots.

With a little bit of patience, you can collect your own carrot seeds and forego having to ever buy a packet again.

Join me as I show you how to collect carrot seeds.

Believe it or not, collecting carrot seeds is not as easy as you might think.

They're not like a lot of the other plants you grow in your garden.

First, carrots are biennial plants.

That means they're going to flower in their second year of life.

So the first year you're growing carrots you might get big beautiful bushy plants, but no flowers.

And no flowers means no seeds.

So you have to grow carrots for two years to get these beautiful flowers to produce seeds.

For most gardeners in most gardens I would recommend go ahead and buy the package of carrot seeds, sow them, and have a crop that same year.

But if you find a variety that's special, you might want to take the extra time to collect the seeds yourself.

Now, these carrots are a variety called Cosmic Purple.

And I was given just a few seeds of the Cosmic Purple a year ago by a gardener friend of mine.

Now, I could have sown those seeds, grown the carrots, and harvested six or seven purple carrots and that would have been the end of it.

But I wanted a lot more than six or seven carrots.

So last year those carrots that I planted stayed in the ground over the winter.

And this spring they popped up with absolutely no problem.

And now in midsummer I have dozens and dozens of these carrot flowers and I will have thousands and thousands of carrot seeds to carry me into the future with a lot of Cosmic Purple carrots.

You may think there were a lot of carrots growing in this bed, but if you look, this is just one carrot right here.

And from this one purple carrot I count 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14 stems coming off of just this one plant.

Over here is another one with a similar number of stems coming out of it.

And over here is another.

So there's just a few carrots planted right here, but there's probably close to 50 stems coming from just these few carrots.

Each of those stems will branch and split and eventually give you a flower at the tip.

On just this one stem alone I counted close to 25 flowers.

And on each of these flower heads I count between 50 and 60 of these smaller clusters of little white flowers.

And each of these clusters has somewhere between 30 and 40 individual white flowers.

That means if you do the math, we've got dozens upon dozens upon dozens of seeds.

As each of these little white flowers mature a little seed will develop.

This green head right here isn't immature.

It's actually the next stage.

The white flowers will turn into individual seeds.

Now, all we need to do is wait, let them dry, and they'll be ready to harvest.

So you can see you don't need a lot of carrots to collect a lot of seeds.

Just leave a couple extra carrots in the ground at the end of the season and the next year you'll have a lot of seeds.

Each carrot will give you about 15 stems and each of those stems will give you 25 umbels and each of those umbels.

probably between 30 and 50 flower clusters.

And each of those flower clusters has ten or 12 flowers and each of those flowers will turn into a seed.

That's a lot of seed by just saving a couple carrots at the end of the season.

After a few weeks, these flower clusters loaded with seeds will be dried and ready to harvest.

I just take what used to be the flowers, cut them off the stem, and then drop them into the paper bag.

Not all of the flower clusters will dry on the plant at the same rate so leave the ones that are still green and only take off the ones that have dried.

With all of these flower clusters ready it may take a little while, but you want to try to get as many of these as you can if you want a lot of seeds.

Now that I have a bag of dried carrot umbels I'm ready to begin the process of separating them into individual seeds.

I like to set up a work space with lots of room.

I'll lay down the newspapers and then collect the couple tools I'll need to make this process a little easier.

So let's begin by taking out one of the individual umbels.

Even when dried it still holds its basic shape and if you look closely you'll be able to see the individual seeds.

Each of the seeds resemble a little burr.

You can actually see the little sharp points that are sticking out from each of the Individual seeds.

And remember, each one of these at one point was one of those little white flowers.

By allowing the seeds to dry on the plant you can see how easy they are to brush off onto a plate.

Just by using my fingers I'm plucking off the tips and letting the seeds fall onto this plate.

This one umbel has given almost a plate full of seeds and there's still more to pluck out.

You want to try to be careful and leave as much of the big pieces of the umbel in place.

That just saves the cleanup later on.

As you do this you'll notice some of the seeds are bouncing onto the newspaper that's one reason why I set it up, just to help with the cleanup later on.

I don't know the exact count but there are hundreds of seeds here from just the one umbel and remember I've got dozens of umbels.

And so now I just repeat the process.

taking a dried umbel loaded with seeds and then just using my fingertips, brush them off onto the plate, trying to leave behind the dried structure.

And I'll just toss this into the compost pile later on.

This does take quite a while, but remember you're dealing with thousands of seeds, which will grow thousands of carrots.

So you'll be able to have ample carrots for many seasons to come.

It's worth spending a little bit of time now to benefit later on.

It won't take long before your plate begins to fill with all these seeds.

So, I like to move in stages.

This is the first stage.

collecting the seed.

Now, we'll move on to the next stage which is cleaning the seed.

These seeds are ready to use exactly as they are.

In fact, you could plant them as they are now and expect to get carrots.

But if you're going to store them for the long term and with thousands of seeds I'm planning on storing them, you want to remove that outer layer.

Remember I pointed out those little hairs, those little spikes? For long-term storage to be able to put a lot of seeds in a smaller space you should try to get rid of that outer shell.

The first way I do this is just to use the seeds themselves as basically little pieces of sandpaper against each other.

And I'll just rub the seeds against each other in my hands.

And this will separate most of those little hairs away from the seed.

This technique works really well to clean up the seeds, but all that chaff falls right back into the plate and at some point we're gonna have to separate the chaff from the seed.

So I prefer to use a second technique and this is where the sieve comes in.

So I'll take another plate and the sieve.

Now I'll drop the seeds into the sieve and I'll just work the seeds around the inside.

Now instead of the seeds rubbing up against each other as the only way to remove those outer hairs the roughness of this screen does the same and what happens is all the chaff falls through the screen onto this plate.

And now this chaff can be discarded and what's left behind is mostly seeds inside the sieve.

There's still some bits of stem that remain inside this sieve.

So at this point,I'll use my colander.

I'll place it over another plate and then just dump those seeds in.

The seeds will fall through and some of the larger pieces will remain behind.

There might be a couple very small stem pieces that fall through the colander at this point but they're very easy to pick out.

And what's left behind is cleaned carrot seeds ready for storage or planting.

If you don't have a sieve or a colander or choose not to use them, you can turn to a fan or go outside on a windy day.

After you've rubbed the seeds together and gotten all that outer layer to separate.

In windy conditions, or with the fan, just drop the seeds on to the plate and all those little bits of chaff will blow away.

It's a little bit messier, but just as effective.

Some of the heavier bits of stem will still fall onto the plate, just like the colander.

You just pick them out and you've got clean seed.

I still have a lot of work to do to collect the rest of the seeds from this bag, but really this process started a year ago.

So another hour or so really isn't that bad.

There you have it.

How to collect carrot seeds.

If you have any comments or questions, please let me know below.

If you haven't subscribed to the Gardener Scott channel you can do so now.

And if you like the video you can give me a thumbs up and share it.

I'm Gardener Scott.

Enjoy gardening.

Source: Youtube

Posted by in growing herbs Tags: , , , , , on Sep 12, 2019

i 2 i i to.

Source: Youtube

Gardening teaches everything from economics to science to spirituality to emotion and love to hard work.

Gardening is truly a master teacher for adults and children.

Perspective – see things from a different point of view.

Optimism – hope for outcomes that are uncertain.

Dilemmas – being stuck between a rock and a hard place, choosing between two outcomes.

Loneliness – isolation.

Effort – Good things require hard workDisappointment – Failure happens, and it’s a necessary step on the path to success.

Joyful consequences – Unexpected things can be wonderful!Planning – identify goals, formulate strategies, implement steps to success, monitor progress.

Moderation – it is possible to have too much of a good thing.

Nurturing – caring for something or someone other than yourself.

Math – Adding, subtracting, estimating, etc.

Life cycle – Life and death and everything between.

Teamwork – Working together benefits everyone.

Giving and Charity – it’s not always about YOU!Patience – good things take time.

Balance – even distribution of time, energy, effort, and outcomes.

Meditation – connecting with nature and creating a spiritual bond.

Thankfulness – appreciation for outcomes beyond your control.

Life lessons – Plant seeds, Clear weeds, get dirty, water your plants.

God is the gardener – you grow, you learn, you reach out, and sometimes you get cut down – but only because it’s what’s best for you to become what He wants you to become.

How Does Gardening Help A Child’s Development?Gardening Engages ALL Five SensesEncourages Healthy EatingEnhances Fine Motor SkillsTeaches Scientific ConceptsPromotes Family BondingGenerates ResponsibilityHelps With Basic MathGardening Requires Planning and Organization.

Source: Youtube


19 Perfect Tips How To Growing Tomatoes in Pots.

  • Use Biodegradable Pots Peat pots make planting extra easy: Just dig the hole, put in the plant, and fill in with soil.
  • There’s no need to take your plants out of the pot.
  • Feed Them Well Like growing kids, tomatoes are heavy feeders, so add plenty of organic matter (such as compost) to the soil.
  • Give them an early boost by working a little fertilizer into the soil at planting time.
  • Plant Deeply Tomato plants form roots all the way along their stems, so you can give your plants an extra-strong root system (especially the tall, leggy ones) by planting them on their sides.
  • Do remove any leaves that would be covered under the soil, though.
  • Buried leaves could rot and encourage disease.
  • Water Well It’s always a good idea to give freshly added plants a little extra water the first week or two after you plant them to help them get established.They’re most susceptible to drying out when they’re young.
  • Stake Them There are two basic categories of tomatoes: determinate and indeterminate.
    • Determinate tomatoes, sometimes called bush tomatoes, put on most of their growth before they start to bloom and produce fruit.
    • Indeterminate tomatoes keep growing after they start to bloom — so the plants can become quite large (more than 6 feet tall).
  • Stake indeterminate tomatoes to keep them standing.It will help keep the plants healthy and make the fruits easier to harvest.
  • Plant in Pots Try planting your tomatoes in containers if you’ve had trouble growing them in the past.
  • Large containers filled with a high-quality potting mix give your plants more protection from fungal diseases.
  • Try Red Mulch We know mulch is good for the garden — but university research suggests that red plastic mulch may make your tomato plants more productive.(One study showed yields increased by 20 percent by using red mulch.) Red mulch also helps the soil conserve moisture longer during hot, dry periods and inhibits weeds.
  • Keep Out Cutworms Hungry cutworms attack young vegetables.
  • Protect your tomatoes by giving them a collar of newspaper.Or cut the top and bottom off a tin can and sink that into the soil around your plants.It creates a barrier that forces the cutworms to go looking for another dinner.
  • Protect Them from Cold You can use a variety of devices to protect your tomatoes from the cold if you want to get a jump-start on the tomato-growing season.
  • One of the easiest is a simple cloche made from an old milk jug; simply cut the bottom of the jug and set it over your tomato plants.Leave the top open so the cloche doesn’t get too hot inside during sunny days.
  • Keep the Foliage Dry Tomatoes are susceptible to a number of diseases.
  • To keep your plants healthy, water with a soaker hose.This helps the foliage stay drier; wet foliage (especially in late afternoon, evening, and nighttime hours) can encourage common fungal diseases such as blight.