(Music throughout video) Spinning, vertical herb tower Made with a wood or metal tomato cage Use a strong plant dolly Use a large container Use pre-planted container or plant directly in pot Place tomato cage securely in large container Add coco liner to wire baskets Use velcro tape to secure basket to tomato cage frame Continue securing all baskets to the frame with velcro tape Wedge baskets into frame for best support Fill with "Edna's Best" potting soil, EB Stone Organics Spray water on baskets and soil to moisten Plant your herbs! Done! Enjoy your vertical herb tower! Lettuce and basil Purple basil Harvest herbs from 4 to 8 baskets! Spin your "Living Spice Rack!" MATERIALS.
So right now we're going to pick the tomato and what we try to do is pick a nice big one because if you pick big Tomatoes that's the ones you'll get a better seed out of.
And the reason this one is so juicy is because it set down there long enough and it's so ripe that it's caused it but it will not hurt for what I'm wanting to do with it so now we're getting ready to deseed the tomato to save the seeds for next year's tomatoes now I'm going to take the core out because it's easier on these big Tomatoes if you remove the core then i'm going to remove this because i don't want to mess with that part OK now this is how we do it it's a messy job but it works so now i'm going to separate it because it's easier for me to get in and scrape out the seeds that are still there like all these the reason we're saving the seeds from this tomato because it's an heirloom and it's cheaper to save our own seeds and and we like this tomato but the reason we don't do it from hybrid seed from tomatoes is because the seed doesn't always come out the same in the way we do it.
There is going to be good seeds in here and there is going to be bad seeds so if the more seeds you get hopefully the better.
I use a glass container because as this progresses the next five days there will be a separation the heavy stuff will will go to the top the seeds to go to the bottom and you'll have a clear water solution in between in the process will take three to five days to work This will separate the good seeds will start dropping to the bottom there will be liquid in between more like water and the base will come up higher as it ferments bad seeds rise good seeds drop now that we have went through the process of separation and the mold on top now we'll go through and clean everything off because the good seeds are down here and the bad seeds are up in here and you just dispose of this anyway you can dispose of it just down the kitchen sink or if you got a washroom and you want to drain slow and catch your seeds if they come out.
The kind of strainer i use is a tea strainer then you run water over it to try to get as much of it as you can because all the seeds have to be washed and you just take and turn them upside down and dump them out so now we just separate them and then starting tomorrow i will move them around so the water will evaporate twice a day at least and we'll do this anywhere from three to four days until we're pretty sure that they're dry now we're going to put them in a container and we're going to put them in a cool dark place for the winter and we're going to use a dryer to keep the seeds dry through the through the winter so i can plant them and they won't sprout inside the container and there's hundreds of seeds in there and we're going to plant them next spring and hopefully we will get a tomato and we can enjoy the fruit later on in the summer.
we start our tomatoes indoors in mid-March, about 6 weeks before the last frost and 7 to 8 weeks before transplanting into the garden.
Though it’s very tempting to start earlier, we’ve found that it doesn’t provide a significant advantage.
In early May, when nighttime temps are in the 40’s or above, we move the tomatoes outside, preferably on an overcast day, and place them in the shade.
This begins the hardening off process.
Over the course of the next week or two, we gradually move them out of the shade and into the sun.
This allows them to adapt to outdoor conditions and reduces subscale.
Sometime around mid-May, when nighttime temperatures are mostly in the 50’s or above, we transplant the tomatoes.
Much of our garden is partially shaded, so we save the sunniest spots for tomatoes.
We also practice crop rotation and don’t plant tomatoes where tomatoes, potatoes, peppers, or eggplants grew the prior year.
Tomatoes can grow new roots along the stem, so we plant them fairly deep, leaving only about 4 to 6 inches above ground and snipping branches if needed.
We space our indeterminate tomatoes one per square foot and prune suckers to prevent overcrowding.
This helps maximize yields per square foot.
When the plants get taller, we also prune the lowest branches to reduce blight.
As the plants grow, we weave them through the trellis grid, which usually provides more than enough support for the plants.
When they reach the top of our 8 foot trellises, we top them off to encourage fruit production.
Tomatoes need moderate to high watering during the growth stage and light watering at harvest time.
We have a lot of rain in the extended forecast, so we probably won’t have to water much in the near future.
In a couple of weeks, when soil temperatures are higher, we’ll mulch the tomatoes to reduce watering requirements.
This will also reduce soil splash, which will protect the plants from blight.
Finally, we’ve found through experience and a soil test that compost, worm castings, and mulch from free local resources provide more than enough nutrients for our tomatoes and the rest of our plants.
that’s all for now.